Yesterday I walked more than 20k, from Ponferrada to Villafranca. I had my backpack transported, so I just had my daypack, and it was a lovely day to walk: clear and crisp.
The second half of the day was in the wine region of Bierzo. I’ll be sure to seek it out their wines now. The dark purple grapes hung in heavy clusters, and I sampled as I went. I have never tasted such delicious grapes! Sweet and intensely berry-like— the way the color purple should taste!
As usual, when I’ve gone over 15K, the last 5K were tough.
Villafranca’s topography reminds me a bit of Western Maryland or West Virginia, steep hills with villages along two swift-running rivers. There were several huge churches that I wanted to visit, but I was too tired to backtrack once I’d found the Hostal I’d reserved.
It feels like I’m moving very slowly, but I’m making steady progress. Tomorrow I go up the mountain to O Cebreiro, the Celtic capital of Galicia. There are thatched roofs and many similarities with Ireland, including the weather. It’s supposed to rain tomorrow like it does more often than not.
One Footestep at a Time 
Beth, don’t be shy about renting a horse in Herrerias! It was a lifesaver for me on that pull up to O Cebreiro. Onward and upward!
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Thanks, Eliza! That would be fun. Unfortunately I am allergic to horses!
Sent from my iPhone
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