Last full day on the Camino

My thoughts throughout the day:

It began like all the other days this week, having coffee before the sun came up at 8:45 and waiting for a break in the rain; setting out, letting the feet and ankles warm up; leaving last night’s stop behind and moving forward towards the next one.

I realized once again how I would never go outside on a rainy day like today at home, let alone walk along a busy highway in the rain and then follow a path into dark woods.

But now it feels normal and I relish the sense of being out in the elements, and noticing how the weather changes from minute to minute.

I have a feeling I may be taking rainy day walks when I get home. Sadly, I would not feel safe walking by myself in the forests of the East Bay hills, which feel so much like these Eucalyptus woods.

I haven’t met many Bay Area pilgrims, but yesterday, I met women from Orinda, Redwood City, and San Francisco. Charlene, from the City, lives in the same apartment building as my cousin. We’re going to have dinner in Santiago.

Spent a fun couple of hours last night in the Albergue bar visiting with several nice guys from the U.K. and Ireland. One was in his late 60’s and had grown up in Liverpool. He saw the Stones and the Hollies at the Cavern club. Had fun talking about British Invasion musicians and sharing photos from the Camino.

One of the joys of the journey at this point is looking back and talking about specific places on the Way and comparing experiences. Did you stay at Orisson on the first night? What’s your pace been? Did you stay with the nuns in Carrion de Los Condes?

I decided to walk 18k today and then have a shorter 8k walk into Santiago tomorrow, and carry the full pack into Santiago instead of transporting the daypack like I have been for the last week.

Last night the rain was non-stop, and the gale force winds and rain lashing the stone house kept me awake. It was my only episode of insomnia on the Camino. I’ve usually been zonked out from all the exercise.

My mind was swirling with questions and uncertainties about what I should do after Santiago with my 5 free days before my flight home, and processing the fact that I’m nearing the end of the journey.

I will greatly miss the walking, and the combination of the meditative and the physical. I’ll miss the unfolding of the countryside, one village at a time, and so much more that can’t be immediately quantified.

The walk today brought me by the Santiago airport, and into the old suburbs on the hill above the city. Up, down, zigs and zags. I checked into a Casa Rural and met up with some of the same folks as the night before.

Today, as I walked, I wondered what does Santiago mean to me? I’m sure that was swirling around in the night of insomnia as well.

It’s an icon, and like the Emerald City in the Wizard of Oz, it’s glittered out in the distance for a long time.

I know I will enjoy it. I’ve loved Pamplona, Burgos, and Leon.

There’s more to it, of course. The mileage markers on the Camino have been counting down for days. It’s the end of the pilgrimage.

At the heart of what Santiago means to me as a Christian, and from the more Protestant angle, is the tradition that James, one of Jesus’ beloved disciples is buried there.

What does that mean? I’m still meditating on that. I don’t have the medieval belief in the cult of the saints, and the modern sense of the saints as intercessors isn’t part of my belief system. Certainly the mystery draws me. I want to experience the Holy. As a priest, there is a depth of
Church history, theology, and faith embedded in the city that I feel drawn to experience.

And the sense of being swept along in this river of pilgrims that’s flowed this direction for centuries has been inestimable.

Tomorrow I’m going to take my time and savor the experience of swimming in that river of pilgrims. And arriving. As my dear friend, a sailor, commented, it’s a major landfall.

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Categories: Camino, October 2013, Santiago de Compostela, Spiritual Growth, Spirituality, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , | 7 Comments

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7 thoughts on “Last full day on the Camino

  1. Aida

    Wishing you fulfillment ! Will you go down to the sea, as in the movie. Have enjoyed sharing some virtual steps with you.💞🌟😇

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    • I’m loving Santiago, and have burrowed in for a couple of days. It’s been raining a lot and so I’m not going on to Finesterre and Muxia, though it would be fun to see the Atlantic. I’m training back to Madrid on Monday.

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  2. Lydia

    I am so, so happy (and weepy) for you, so moved by this whole journey. I’m hoping you find some wonderful place in your five free days, somewhere you really like, somewhere you can be very STILL, and process what you’ve done, and write and write and write.

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  3. Melindaland

    Your pics of the Camino over-arched with trees have been so lovely & so very like a Gothic nave that I’m astonished over and over.
    By the time you read this you will be in Santiago and I can only try to imagine the swell and swirl of emotion that you’ve experienced. A real maelstrom of sorrow, relief, elation and ? I congratulate you & love that you’ve completed this life- & spirit-changing journey; overcoming mountains, weather, blisters, many long miles, doubts & worries! You are my hero Beth! Wishing so much right now that I could grab you, hug you and cry with you!

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  4. foote.george@DORSEY.com

    Beth, try as we might to walk in others’ shoes, here is how far at least one of us has to go: I saw the airport picture and my first thought was, “Good, Beth can take a cab to town.” I know your other admirers and followers are more in step. I am getting there. Promise.

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    • Shhhh…I did take a cab out of Leon…and a couple other placed, but I was sworn to good pilgrim behavior for the last 100k to Santiago to receive the official Compostella diploma of completion in Latin. Will post photo of it tomorrow!

      Sent from my iPhone

      >

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