The countryside is punctuated with ancient churches. Today my pilgrim buddy, Caroline and I bussed to Los Arcos from Estella, to give our bodies a break. (20 minutes to cover 22 kilometers vs. about 5 hours at my good pace. We walked into the church, which looked semi-impressive on the outside, and my jaw dropped. Overwhelmingly beautiful. Cloisters attached. Sometimes Spain just brings tears to my eyes. We’re going there for pilgrim Mass this evening, and another pilgrim blessing. There’s St. James again!