Posts Tagged With: Pilgrimage

Signage on the Camino and in Life

Posted on July 8, 2013 by bethlindfoote

yellow arrow, Najera

The Camino is very well-marked. Much of it, in fact, is an exclusive use path through the countryside, and all along the entirety of Camino, yellow arrows and the familiar blue and yellow shell signs point Pilgrims ever forward towards Santiago.

But sometimes the Way plays Peekaboo with its Peregrinos.

Descending through the forest to Roncevalles early on, the path dwindles into a muddy clearing. Passing through the city of Logrono, the Camino appears to stop at a busy roundabout. Sometimes even out in the open countryside when the Camino is an actual path, a fork appears that looks just like the path you’re on.

Camino shell in pavement, Burgos

“fork” in the Camino

“Where is the Camino? Or better, in Spanish:

“Donde esta el Camino?”

That question made me stop, and look with fresh eyes at the scene around me, and comb the environment for clues. Invariably, something would pop out of the landscape, like seeing Waldo in a “Where’s Waldo?” picture book.

There! I see a yellow arrow on a tree, or on a curb a block ahead. There! I see a bronze shell imbedded in the pavement. There! I see a blue and yellow Camino symbol up on the side of a building.

For a few days I took photos of yellow arrows, shells, and signage in general, which changed with each town and region. Some villages even painted a yellow stripe on the pavement through town to make it abundantly clear where the Camino was.

The Camino made me understand that I like knowing where I’m going. I already knew this, but the Camino made me understand it in a kinesthetic way. (I also learned, late in life, that I’m more of a kinesthetic learner than I realized.)

The Camino also taught me some valuable skills about finding my way forward when life brings you to a crossroads, or when the path you’re on forks, becomes muddled, muddy, or leads you to what seems like a never-ending roundabout you can’t seem to exit.

roundabout in Logrono

Here’s what I learned:

Stop. Take a sip of water. Pray. Consult the literature. Talk to your fellow pilgrims. Look up. Scan the landscape for markers, arrows, street signs, graffiti or kairns of stones left by others. If necessary, remove your boots and socks, and sit down. Push away the desire to know right away. Pray. Have a snack. Ask the locals. Pray some more. Then look again. The Camino is there. Walk.

Camino arrows leading Pilgrims out of Leon from the Parador and Bridal photo shoot

Inconspicuous Camino sign in center of Leon

Categories: Camino, Reflections, Spiritual Growth, Spirituality | Tags: Camino joy, Pilgrimage, Walking the Camino | 7 Comments

Walking through a Painting

Posted on July 5, 2013 by bethlindfoote

Back home in the Bay Area, bright orange California poppies make a brief appearance in the Spring. I expect poppies to be that distinctive color of our official state flower. In Spain, I was surprised to find poppies of a different color! The Camino led me through fields of green wheat lit with brilliant red poppies. I felt like I was walking through a painting. Where had I seen this before? In Monet, of course!

Categories: Camino, June 2013, Reflections | Tags: Camino joy, Pilgrimage, Walking the Camino | 3 Comments

I am the Vine, you are the branches.

Posted on July 1, 2013 by bethlindfoote

I’ve seen grapevines all my life in Wine Country of Napa and Sonoma Counties. But walking through the Wine Region of Rioja in Spain was a different experience. We were not whizzing by in a car. I could reach out and touch those vines, feel the texture of the leaves. I stepped on the same soil they were growing in. It was much more real.

We often saw workers in the vineyards trimming and pruning the vines by hand. It reminded me of this passage in John’s Gospel.

“I am the true vine, and my Father is the vinegrower. ²He removes every branch in me that bears no fruit. Every branch that bears fruit he prunes to make it bear more fruit. ³You have already been cleansed^[ by the word that I have spoken to you. ⁴Abide in me as I abide in you. Just as the branch cannot bear fruit by itself unless it abides in the vine, neither can you unless you abide in me. I am the vine, you are the branches. Those who abide in me and I in them bear much fruit, because apart from me you can do nothing. ⁶Whoever does not abide in me is thrown away like a branch and withers; such branches are gathered, thrown into the fire, and burned. John 15: 1-6

Entering into the rhythm of the Camino, “abiding” in it, brought me joy and meaning. As I walked, I felt an unspoken connection with other Pilgrims walking with me towards a common goal. I also walked in the joy of the present moment. With each step, I felt very much like a branch connected to the Vine of life, being nourished and encouraged to grow spiritually and physically.

I walked by ancient grapevines, twisted and rough. Bright green, pliant vines were bursting out of their knarled fists of bark.

One day we passed a pile of grapevines that had been pulled out, and stacked by the side of the Camino. Their fruitful life had ended. New grapevines were being planted in their place. That, too, was a symbol of Resurrection, and gave me new insight into Jesus’ words in the Gospel of John.

Categories: Camino, Gospel of John, Reflections, Spiritual Growth, Spirituality | Tags: Camino joy, Camino Spirituality, Pilgrimage, Walking the Camino | Leave a comment

A time to walk and a time to heal

Posted on June 25, 2013 by bethlindfoote

Yesterday I took a taxi to the Universidad de Leon Hospital and limped into the ER to have a medical professional look at my foot. It was a fascinating window into the Spanish medical system. They don’t take your blood pressure or weigh you or make you fill out any forms. They have a “concierge” guy at the door of the ER who directs you where to go, and a very no nonsense triage guy. It’s so much quieter than an American ER, no TV or paging, and the lighting was subdued, not hospital bright.

I can’t believe I did it all in Spanish! Because no one at the hospital spoke English. The female doctor spoke a little. Had an X-ray done, and also tried to pay. I’m supposed to give the documentation to Kaiser.

Her diagnosis was Plantar Fasciatis. She said I should not try to continue the Camino.

The treatment is RICE: rest, ice, elevation, compression and anti-inflammatory drugs.

My Camino friends from Chicago arrived at the hotel in the afternoon, and we sat in their room and I heard about their days of walking and how tired they were. As we talked, I realized that, for me, walking the Camino was over. I could follow along by bus, but that wasn’t really a pilgrimage. I found so much joy in the walking, and talking on the path, and watching for the yellow arrows, and coming into tiny villages—the whole experience.

It made me sad to come to grips with my situation, even though I knew I wasn’t alone. Many people in our “class of Orisson” were going home with injuries.

So I went upstairs and prayed about what to do, and cried. I had to have a destination for the morning. Astorga or Santiago by bus? Madrid and then SFO? Hang out somewhere for 3 weeks? I talked to Hale on Skype. Coming home seemed like the right decision. I called Delta on Skype and was able to change my ticket.

I met Gina and Caroline in the bar and we talked like Camino friends talk, honestly and with love. They are gifts of the Camino; I’ve learned so much from both of them.

We met in the morning for the awesome Parador hotel breakfast buffet. I decided to give Gina my Camelbak and my copy of the Brierley guidebook for the rest of the journey. The Camino has made me more generous. It feels good to know she has them as she moves into Galicia. We posed at the statue outside the Parador, and then it was time for my taxi to the train station.

I’m in Madrid now. I will keep posting my reflections on my experience of the Camino as I move forward, as well as more photos.

I know that it will continue to teach me and inform my ministry.

Today in Madrid I looked up at the cathedral and saw a statue on the roof of St. James with his staff and shell. Later, I had tapas at an outdoor cafe and noticed that we were on Calle Santiago. He is looking out for me, I think.

Categories: Camino, June 2013, Leon, Spirituality | Tags: Camino friends, Camino Injury, Camino Spirituality, End of Camino, Leon, Parador, Pilgrimage, Walking the Camino | 10 Comments

Ankle update

Posted on June 21, 2013 by bethlindfoote

Back on Tuesday on the 12.2 k to San Juan de Ortega, I did something to my right ankle. It slowly began to hurt as I hiked, and now it’s painful to put weight on it. Ibuprofen and compression bandage sock have been applied; ice is hard to come by. I hobbled around Burgos, and it was feeling better with the compression sock. But it’s nowhere near healed enough to walk 20 k on it.

There was one bus yesterday from Burgos to Fromista, one of the larger towns out in the Meseta. It left at 5:30, so I had all day in Burgos on my own after Monika left. I visited a church nearby–San Lorenzo–and there was Mass, so I stayed. Many well-dressed 70 year old women. Then I had a nice lunch on San Lorenzo street, that winds off the Calle Mayor.

Picked up the pack at the hotel and hobbled over to the bus station. I was definitely the only American there. I had to figure out the ticketing, and then the bus arrived and off we went, out of Burgos into the countryside.

Fromista is about three stages along in the guidebook, and has a landmark Romanesque church, so it seemed like a good choice. Turns out that there aren’t many busses on this part of the Camino.

I got to Fromista and as I was crossing to the church, the French woman from Orisson waved to me! We greeted each other, and then our language skills failed us. But it was great to see her.

The church is very simple, totally different than the usual gold gothic/baroque. 1066! It is the first church I’ve seen that I’d like to celebrate the Eucharist in.

When I came out, someone was jumping up and down across the street. It was Gina from Chicago! She and Kai were sitting outside, and we had dinner together.

The ankle is really disappointing me. I have to recalibrate and not get upset. I will taxi to the next town and perhaps bus to Leon.

Categories: Camino, June 2013 | Tags: Camino Injury, Pilgrimage, Walking the Camino | 6 Comments

Day #15

Posted on June 20, 2013 by bethlindfoote

The Camino turns every town into your college campus; you walk into the central square and you see people you know. It’s the most wonderful feeling.

And there are always surprises. Today I walked around Burgos (slowly, because of my sore ankle) and as I descended the staircase by the Cathedral, I saw Taylor sitting in a cafe.

Taylor was the first person I met on the Camino, climbing up out of San Jean, in France. He is about Colby’s age, wears a straw cowboy hat, and has a prayer shawl, made by his mother, that he uses as a pillow. Sweet guy. I assumed he was way ahead of me with the other 20-somethings. He said he was slowing down to enjoy each place.

We compared notes about where we’d been, and he consulted his staff with the name of every night’s stop carved into it. That was new since I’d last seen him. It’s tempting to buy one of those wooden staves, but I love my trekking poles.

We caught up a bit more and then, instead of plopping down next to him at the table, I sensed that we both wanted to be alone, and said “Buen Camino”, knowing that we will most probably see each other again up ahead.

Categories: Camino, June 2013 | Tags: Camino conversations, Camino friends, Pilgrimage | 10 Comments

Hospitality

Posted on June 16, 2013 by bethlindfoote

By now, I’ve stayed at 11 different places on the Camino. Some places practice “transactional” hospitality. That is what we’re used to at home: you pay a fee and receive services, and its very business-like. I’ve shared a 30E hotel or private auberge room with my pilgrim friends, and its very predictable, and safe, with privacy

Then there are the “Pilgrim Pleasure Domes,” like Hotel Jackue in Puente la Reina. They built an Auberge in the basement of a hotel. It had dorm rooms and private rooms, and nice bathrooms, a communal kitchen, laundry machines, and all the amenities of the hotel: the bar, beer garden, masseuse, and a 13E Pilgrim dinner with good wine. Our group had a proper dinner party that night, and stayed up talking in the easy chairs.

I’ve also stayed at family run auberges, where the proprietor lives in the building and is front desk clerk, laundry person, and travel guide. The place in Los Arcos was one of those, and the place I’m staying tonight in Belorado. They are very friendly, carry your backpack upstairs for you, and have a genuine interest in the Camino. The guests are pilgrims, and there’s communal space arranged do people will talk. They’re often in funky, renovated spaces, and very charming.
Orisson was a fancy version. They could charge more because they were the only Auberge on the mountain. They served a communal meal, and asked us to introduce ourselves, which helped us get to know each other. That’s where I met so many pilgrim friends.

Then there are the true Auberges, run by the municipal government or an International Pilgrim Organization. They have a special brand of hospitality. The ones run by Pilgrim organizations have volunteers who come from all over the world to work for two weeks at a time as hospitaleros. They meet you at the front door with a warm welcome, and know what it’s like to be a pilgrim. My first encounter with one like this was at Roncevalles, after the epic walk over the mountains. I had a tough night sleeping with a snorer in the room and the hospitalero helped me move my mattress into the Common Room, where I could sleep. He also gave me the wise advice, “snoring is part of the Camino.”

I’ve been reflecting on all these kinds of hospitality along the Way, and how we can cultivate the warm hospitality of the hospitaleros a and the family run auberges at church. We are called to extend more than “transactional” hospitality, we’re called to be transformative agents of hospitality in Christ’s image. The Camino is teaching me so much, day by day.

Categories: Camino, June 2013 | Tags: Albergues, Hospitality, Pilgrimage, Snoring on the Camino, Walking the Camino | 6 Comments

Reflections from Day#6

Posted on June 11, 2013 by bethlindfoote

Today was day six of the pilgrimage. It feels like much longer, in a positive way: the experience has been so rich. I have entered a new community, of pilgrims, and a new country with its language and culture. It’s been physically challenging, and spiritually rich.

Yesterday we walked 24 kilometers in the mud, mostly, after an adrenaline filled day walking in the rain leaving Pamplona. I walked both days with Caroline from Chicago. She is having her pack transported each day, and walking with her daypack. She has a slow and steady pace, and we stopped to smell the beautiful roses along the way. Her friend from Chicago, Gina, is an athlete, and walks very fast. I kept to her pace between Roncevalles and Zubiri. They are both wonderful women and I’ve shared 2 hotel rooms with them, and had such a fun time. Yesterday, I hit some physical wall: felt weepy in the afternoon, and realized that I had not drunk enough water, and my camelback was dry. We didn’t have snacks with us. My legs were rashy. Basically didn’t feel too good after the first 15 kilometers. An older German lady was walking behind us and said, “are you ok?” I said, “I’m not sure,” and she opened her pack and gave me some of her water. Then she said, “I am a healer, come here.” She put her hands near me and told me to visualize my feet and legs becoming better. We conversed a little–I don’t speak German and she doesn’t speak much English–but we understood each other in the way that Pilgrims seem to along the Camino. Caroline took a photo of the two of us.

Categories: June 2013 | Tags: Camino friends, Pilgrimage, Walking the Camino | 1 Comment

Night in Roncevalles

Posted on June 8, 2013 by bethlindfoote

After another jolly Pilgrim dinner, the Monastery offered a Pilgrim Mass at 7:00. How meaningful to share a heartfelt Peace of The Lord with my new friends on the road. It was unexpectedly moving when, at the end, the priest called all the Pilgrims forward for a blessing, which was the same one we used on my last day at Trinity. Afterwards, the organ surged and a light went up on the. Statue of St. James in pilgrim garb. There was such a sense of the Spirit. I knelt beneath the Statue with many other pilgrims, with w smith in my heart.

Categories: Blessings, June 2013 | Tags: Pilgrim Blessing, Pilgrim Mass, Pilgrimage, Roncevalles | Leave a comment

Day #1

Posted on June 7, 2013 by bethlindfoote

Hale and I said our farewells at the Porte d’Espagne at the edge of the old town, and then I kept going up the hill, on the Camino. It was hard to leave him after such a good vacation together. He’s been so supportive of my desire to go on the Camino. My first stop was the auberge at Orisson, 8.4 kilometers up the mountain. The path was pleasantly uphill, through pastures. And silence. The only sound was the tapping of my hiking poles and the bells on the cattle down below. A farmer wearing a beret said “Madame” to my bonjour as I passed by. The road kept climbing and then got seriously steep. I met my first pilgrims as I stopped to rest: a young American guy from MA, a guy who works for Twitter in San Francisco (!) , a Dutch couple going to volunteer at the albergue in Roncevalles for two weeks, an Italian woman and an older Irish lady. Then it got seriously steep. I was very glad to have poles. There was no rush to get to Orisson because I had a reservation, so I enjoyed being in the moment and taking my time. When Orisson came into view it was like a mirage, it was so good to finally get there. I had the rest of the afternoon to read and visit with people on the deck, do our wash, and then we had a lovely communal meal with about 75 pilgrims. Wine, soup, meat, and French Basque cake for dessert. The owner of the Inn asked each of us to stand up and say where we were from. It’s a little challenging to return to the hostel life: bunk beds, no privacy, and the worst is the snoring. I looked out the window at 3 am and saw the most amazing stars.

Categories: Camino de Santiago, June 2013 | Tags: Albergues, Camino joy, Orisson, Pilgrimage, Snoring on the Camino, St. Jean Pied-de-Port, Walking the Camino | 2 Comments

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