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Astorga Sabbath

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Yesterday I took a serious rest day, not unlike a Sabbath.

I’ve been staying at Albergue San Javier a block from the cathedral, in a 300 year old house that’s been converted into an Albergue: two floors of bunk bed rooms, a downstairs common area with an open kitchen, sunken seating area, and a back courtyard with a balcony overlooking it from the second floor. Laundry hangs above the courtyard. The place feels homey.

After Camino 1.0 I am taking the rest thing seriously to keep the ankles happy. Staying “home” slowed me down enough to have conversations with fellow pilgrims from Korea, Spain, Finland, Hungary and Denmark. I went to the grocery store and bought eggs, cheese, good Spanish wine for 2E and made lunch in the kitchen. It’s was a nice break from coffee bar food. I sat in the sun and read, and had a restorative foot massage. In the evening, I had dinner in the kitchen with two sisters from Hungary. At 10:00 I climbed into my cozy lower bunk and slept 8 hours. Truly a Sabbath. Slowing down has brought me deeper in touch with my fellow pilgrims.

This morning I’m eating another omelette and sharing the rest of my groceries with other pilgrim cooks. It feels good to see the rest of the eggs get cooked, and leave the spaghetti for someone else to boil up another day, and to give back to the Camino.

I’m going on up the Camino towards the Cruz de Ferro today, after checking out the ancient hospital where St. Francis stayed on his Camino in 1212!

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Categories: Favorite Albergues, October 2013, Uncategorized, Wisdom | Tags: , | 3 Comments

A mellow mood

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Yesterday I walked part of the way with a dentist from New Hampshire, who’s been on the Camino for three weeks. He and everyone I’ve met so far have said last week was a nightmare: 5 days of walking the Meseta in pouring rain.

One of my goals for the Camino is to be mindful of my blessings. The autumn sunshine so far is something I’m saying thank-you for throughout the day. It’s very similar to Alameda, but colder at night.

Enjoyed solving the problems of the USA with Edwin from NH over dinner last night.

This morning I had my pack transported via Jacotrans to my next stop. What a difference that makes! I may have found my pace: 15k a day with a daypack. I arrived pleasantly exercised but not hurting at 12:30 and there’s time to relax and explore the town.

I walked most of the way today with Petra, a nice woman from Bremen, Germany, who’s been on the Camino three weeks.

She was continuing on to Astorga, another 15k, and it would have been fun to keep talking, but I was sure I wanted to limit my mileage. As we crossed the bridge into town she found a note for her under a rock from a friend named Dave. Very romantic!

My pack was here when I arrived, and I’m settled into Albergue San Miguel, one inviting place. They greet you with a glass of local vino tinto, and it’s full of original paintings.

I discovered a blister on the usual spot on my 4th toe. The Albergue owners sent me to the Farmacia and I had personal treatment by a lovely pharmacist. It was fun to practice Spanish with her, and she got a kick out of my being from San Francisco. “Señora de San Francisco!” She said to her coworker in the back.

Some towns are just friendly, and Hospital de Orbigo feels that way. On to Astorga tomorrow, blister and all.

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Categories: October 2013, Uncategorized | Tags: , , | 1 Comment

First Day on the Camino 2.0

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One of the perks of jet lag is waking up early. So when festival revelers woke me up singing drinking songs in the street at 5:00, I was ready to go. After much internal debate about where to start and how far to go, I did my online morning prayer and came up with the following: walk through Leon to the Parador, where I left the Camino in June, and then call a taxi out if town, skipping the suburbs and sparing my feet on day 1. It always feels good to have a plan.

So I left Hotel Q after desayuno in the dark at 8:00, and walked the Camino route through the medieval city. From all directions there was the tap tap of hiking poles. My fellow pilgrims were also headed out. I have been so consumed with travel arrangements and whittling down the contents of my pack, that had forgotten the impact of common purpose and fellowship between Peregrinos. “Buen Camino!” We said in the dark as we converged on the Way. That was my first tearing up episode. Then, a few minutes later as I paused in the Plaza San Isidore searching for which way to go, a guy standing outside the church pointed the way the Camino exited the irregularly shaped plaza. That was the second tearing up, followed by approaching the Parador, where I had decided to go home after my ankle injury. I asked a fellow pilgrim to take my picture by the statue, then went inside to have them call a taxi. All was the same as June. The taxi came and I started I Virgen del Camino, where the path leaves the suburbs. Suddenly I was back on the Way, and inexpressibly happy. The weather was clear, about 65, beautiful walking weather. A high point of the
day was talking to an old shepherd who had three German Shepherds herding gigantic cattle, in my rudimentary Espanol.

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Categories: Camino de Santiago, October 2013, Return to Camino, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , | 7 Comments

A good day to start

I began Camino 2.0 today, taking off from SFO in the morning light. Out the window across the aisle I could glimpse the City shining in the sun, and the Golden Gate Bridge. Always a pang leaving the Bay Area. Hale got up way too early to drive me to the airport in the dark. No traffic at 4:30 a.m., and the lighting of the new Bay Bridge Tower and cables was stunning.

Today is the Feast of St. Francis, Patron Saint of San Francisco. It seems like a good date to start. I just read that Francis himself walked the Camino!

I will remember him and the 13th century conditions when I start to complain about the bunk beds in the albergues.

I’m doing laps in the Atlanta airport before my flight to Madrid.
Buen Camino! Here’s some art in the airport of some very American Saints.

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Categories: October 2013, Uncategorized | Tags: | 4 Comments

Monastery de Santa Maria de Real

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Categories: June 2013, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Pilgrim

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I’ve been lightening my pack all day, ounce by ounce. Sorry this had been such a theme the last couple of days, but I’m the girl who drives around with a car as my closet. I slung on the pack and walked through St Jean this afternoon, and saw this fine pilgrim. The medieval pilgrims traveled with a staff, a cloak, and a gourd for water. No high-tech fibers for them! But they walked the same streets of St.Jean, and the Camino. Tomorrow morning I’m off to Orisson, my first stop.

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Categories: June 2013, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , | 5 Comments

St. Jean Pied-de-Port

We are here! We drove the back roads from Lourdes, skirting the autoroute, passing through many small villages. Some were disintegrating, some were prosperous, and as we neared the Basque Country, the houses became newer and more affluent. We saw Jai Alai courts next to medieval churches. As we neared St Jean, I found myself both excited and anxious. Hale will be saying goodbye on Wednesday, and driving up to Bordeaux to catch his flight home. I’ll miss him.

This afternoon we saw many pilgrims getting ready; the Pilgrim
Office is a hopping place, staffed by volunteers. Tonight it’s still light at 10:30, and the forecast is for fair skies. I’m so
excited!!

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Categories: June 2013, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Getting close

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We have been living out of our suitcases these last ten days. I packed my Camino pack before we left, and its been traveling with us. Today, as we get closer to St. Jean, I repacked it with the Camelbak and guidebook/journal, rain pants, iPhone charger, (and the solar charger I bought at the airport). It feels heavy again. To be continued…

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Categories: June 2013, Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Arles addendum

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Detail from church yesterday in Arles, of the damned chained together and being licked by flames! Makes me wonder once again why the church focused so much on Judgment Day rather than on “loving as I have loved you.” The church faced directly onto the square, where musicians played, the fountain spladhed, and little boys zoomed around on scooters, much like my beloved Trinity on Sunday morning. Happy Trinity Sunday!

Categories: Uncategorized | 6 Comments

Arles

Totally enjoying my time as a tourist in Southern France! Today we drove to Arles and walked through the market, then wandered through the labyrinth of streets that open onto squares with buildings from so many different centuries. St. Trophime church on the Place Republique, is a Romanesque beauty. On the right side of the doorway is a panel that shows souls chained together, like a chain gang, on their way to hell, being licked with flames. Yes, I’m a tourist for the time being, but the pilgrim in me wonders why the Church focused so intently on the Day of Judgment? Was it a desire to control behavior through fear?

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Categories: June 2013, Uncategorized | 2 Comments

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