Posts Tagged With: Walking the Camino

Night in Los Arcos

I loved my day hanging out in Los Arcos yesterday—experiencing the fabulous church, sitting at the cafe in the town square for lunch and later, dinner with pilgrim friends. Gina, Caroline and I stayed at a cute auberge, and splurged on the more private rooms. They shared,and I had my own room at the top. The ceiling has the original heavy wooden beams. When I went to bed at 10:00 or so, I heard what sounded like a married couple arguing in Spanish. I rolled over, wondered where it could be coming from, next door? How? The building was stone. It didn’t sound like an auberge encounter. The whole place was close for the night. I feel asleep. At about 3 I heard a woman crying out in Spanish and screaming! I was still half asleep, and wondered what the heck?? In the morning I commented to Gina and Caroline about it. Only Gina heard any of it. She thought it was on my floor above her. The Irish woman on my floor heard nothing. As we discussed it on the trail today I realized how strange it was.

The Aubergue was in a building that had to be 300 years old. Who had lived there in all that time? Certainly, many, many people with lives I would never know. Were the voices I heard echoes of another time, of energy held within those walls? I’ll never know. I do know that Spain has an ancient and passionate soul. The voices were not scary. I slept well and felt comfortable in the room. They were human and very real. It was yet another lesson in the mysterious quality of Spain.

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Stairs in La Casa Abuela

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Afternoon in Los Arcos

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Albergue Casa de Abuela in Los Arcos

Categories: Camino de Santiago, Favorite Albergues, June 2013 | Tags: , , , , , | 2 Comments

Church in Los Arcos

The countryside is punctuated with ancient churches. Today my pilgrim buddy, Caroline and I bussed to Los Arcos from Estella, to give our bodies a break. (20 minutes to cover 22 kilometers vs. about 5 hours at my good pace. We walked into the church, which looked semi-impressive on the outside, and my jaw dropped. Overwhelmingly beautiful. Cloisters attached. Sometimes Spain just brings tears to my eyes. We’re going there for pilgrim Mass this evening, and another pilgrim blessing. There’s St. James again!

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Categories: June 2013 | Tags: , , | 6 Comments

Reflections from Day#6

Today was day six of the pilgrimage. It feels like much longer, in a positive way: the experience has been so rich. I have entered a new community, of pilgrims, and a new country with its language and culture. It’s been physically challenging, and spiritually rich.

Yesterday we walked 24 kilometers in the mud, mostly, after an adrenaline filled day walking in the rain leaving Pamplona. I walked both days with Caroline from Chicago. She is having her pack transported each day, and walking with her daypack. She has a slow and steady pace, and we stopped to smell the beautiful roses along the way. Her friend from Chicago, Gina, is an athlete, and walks very fast. I kept to her pace between Roncevalles and Zubiri. They are both wonderful women and I’ve shared 2 hotel rooms with them, and had such a fun time. Yesterday, I hit some physical wall: felt weepy in the afternoon, and realized that I had not drunk enough water, and my camelback was dry. We didn’t have snacks with us. My legs were rashy. Basically didn’t feel too good after the first 15 kilometers. An older German lady was walking behind us and said, “are you ok?” I said, “I’m not sure,” and she opened her pack and gave me some of her water. Then she said, “I am a healer, come here.” She put her hands near me and told me to visualize my feet and legs becoming better. We conversed a little–I don’t speak German and she doesn’t speak much English–but we understood each other in the way that Pilgrims seem to along the Camino. Caroline took a photo of the two of us.

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Categories: June 2013 | Tags: , , | 1 Comment

Water

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Categories: June 2013 | Tags: , , | 1 Comment

Wet!

Rainy walk out of Pamplona. Now I’m a real Peregrina! Let go of my fear of getting wet. Boots have walked through streams. Having coffee in cute village with Gina and Caroline from Chicago.

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Categories: June 2013 | Tags: , , | Leave a comment

Day #1

Hale and I said our farewells at the Porte d’Espagne at the edge of the old town, and then I kept going up the hill, on the Camino. It was hard to leave him after such a good vacation together. He’s been so supportive of my desire to go on the Camino. My first stop was the auberge at Orisson, 8.4 kilometers up the mountain. The path was pleasantly uphill, through pastures. And silence. The only sound was the tapping of my hiking poles and the bells on the cattle down below. A farmer wearing a beret said “Madame” to my bonjour as I passed by. The road kept climbing and then got seriously steep. I met my first pilgrims as I stopped to rest: a young American guy from MA, a guy who works for Twitter in San Francisco (!) , a Dutch couple going to volunteer at the albergue in Roncevalles for two weeks, an Italian woman and an older Irish lady. Then it got seriously steep. I was very glad to have poles. There was no rush to get to Orisson because I had a reservation, so I enjoyed being in the moment and taking my time. When Orisson came into view it was like a mirage, it was so good to finally get there. I had the rest of the afternoon to read and visit with people on the deck, do our wash, and then we had a lovely communal meal with about 75 pilgrims. Wine, soup, meat, and French Basque cake for dessert. The owner of the Inn asked each of us to stand up and say where we were from. It’s a little challenging to return to the hostel life: bunk beds, no privacy, and the worst is the snoring. I looked out the window at 3 am and saw the most amazing stars.

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Categories: Camino de Santiago, June 2013 | Tags: , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Pilgrim

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I’ve been lightening my pack all day, ounce by ounce. Sorry this had been such a theme the last couple of days, but I’m the girl who drives around with a car as my closet. I slung on the pack and walked through St Jean this afternoon, and saw this fine pilgrim. The medieval pilgrims traveled with a staff, a cloak, and a gourd for water. No high-tech fibers for them! But they walked the same streets of St.Jean, and the Camino. Tomorrow morning I’m off to Orisson, my first stop.

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Categories: June 2013, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , | 5 Comments

St. Jean Pied-de-Port

We are here! We drove the back roads from Lourdes, skirting the autoroute, passing through many small villages. Some were disintegrating, some were prosperous, and as we neared the Basque Country, the houses became newer and more affluent. We saw Jai Alai courts next to medieval churches. As we neared St Jean, I found myself both excited and anxious. Hale will be saying goodbye on Wednesday, and driving up to Bordeaux to catch his flight home. I’ll miss him.

This afternoon we saw many pilgrims getting ready; the Pilgrim
Office is a hopping place, staffed by volunteers. Tonight it’s still light at 10:30, and the forecast is for fair skies. I’m so
excited!!

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Categories: June 2013, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , | 2 Comments

Packing

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Will it all fit? This pack is too small! With the help of my intrepid (and ruthless) daughter Andrea, I am getting serious about packing. We got it down to 14 lbs without the 2 liter camelbak filled with water.

Categories: June 2013, Uncategorized | Tags: , , | 7 Comments

Online Camino

I’m transfixed by the online Camino community! First I discovered the Camino Forum on Facebook. Everyday they post a question, (mostly about what to pack, how to train, how to get there, and how to take care of your feet) and people post suggestions and very detailed advice. People sincerely want to help and share their experience.

The American Pilgrims on the Camino site is also great. It’s a treasure trove of information about the Camino. I especially like this introduction to the History tab of the site:

“You are about to enter more than a thousand years of history and tradition associated with the Camino de Santiago. The Camino will become a multifaceted experience for you as you in turn become one with the daily flow of the life of the peregrino. ¡Buen Camino!”

The APOC Facebook page is another place where people are sharing their knowledge, and asking for the gathered wisdom of the pilgrim community.

I look forward to meeting my fellow pilgrims.

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